HIT COUNTER

Hold on the Ground




Aw. Could it be,finally off the table for a few days? Need to work on Hold on the ground for a few days. Get those dogs to hold all kinds of bumpers and game while walking around. Doesn't sound hard but you'd be surprised. Before going on to Fetch we want to make sure there will be no issues so we can move forward and not have to divert to making backwards progress. Lola has been on the ground for a few days now doing well. Having a few issues with presentation and letting go sometimes. It is getting worked out, and after a few sessions last night i think she gets the hint. Sometimes it is easier said than done.
Jager too moved off the table and to the ground last night. First time so it was challenging, had a few drops but thats kind of expected. It is a weird transition from table to ground. In my opinion he is doing quite well. They will all come along.
Nik is actually on to Fetch. Been doing that for a few days now i suppose. All on the table, handler still holding the bumper but slowly working farther away from the dog and eventually will be putting the bumper on the table for retrieve.
Keep going guys.

3 comments:

  1. Chazz, I enjoy looking at your website from time to time. I would like to offer some advice for you guys to consider during FF. It's hard to say from your pictures exactly how far along in FF those dogs are but assuming you are still working thru the process, I would reconsider using dead game in the process unless your completley done with FF. The dog should be 100% rely-able on bumpers and ALL other objects before moving to game IMO. By the time you move to game you should have very little chance of having to come down on the dog with correction. If your only part way done with FF, you don't want to issue any harsh correction with game. They won't forget and may relate it to discipline on down the road when you least expect it. I never introduce game until I know the dog has NO doubt what is expected, so that any correction is 100% understood and they dont associate the game at all. More and more good handlers are failing drags and I believe this to be one underlying reason for it.



    Others may tell you different but I would be careful. At least something to consider. Good luck,

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  2. After the dog is well along in hold I would possibly place a frozen bird or rabbit in their mouth on the table as an introduction to game under very controlled conditions. But again, only after the dog knows the lesson well and there is little chance of correction. The first introduction to game in their mouth needs to be a positive experience with ZERO chance of negativity. You willl have plenty of time for game after all the lessons are well learned and the dog knows that any harsh correction is directly related to the lesson and not game. You defenitely want to introduce game well before the actually drags start but only when completely force fetched should the dog be given a chance to screw it up. Again, this in only my opinion and some may differ. I only know Ive had good luck with this theory.



    I don't care if you post it, only know I'm not trying to sound like an authority, just trying to help with an observation.

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  3. No problem....... just advice that can be taken or not. I think you can see the point. A dog that is still learning hold and fetch with game in it's mouth......... should it drop it, you have no choice but to come down on them and they may associate it with the game. Better to have the ass kickings associated with bumpers ect. You may not see it surface until a later date......... most likely when it's a test situation and there is clearly a different stress level in the air and the dogs mind. Thats when dogs do funny things they wouldnt normally do.

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